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January 27, 2026
When petroleum derivatives in cosmetics are mentioned, our reaction is often immediate and absolute: no, never. And then we remember that the label on our favorite jar of Vaseline reads petroleum jelly. So where does the truth lie? Are petrochemical compounds harmful — and if so, to what extent?
Petroleum derivatives are everywhere: in our clothing, everyday objects and, yes, in cosmetics. They have been used for decades due to their low production cost and excellent sensory properties, and have long been a staple of conventional cosmetic formulations. Recently, however, they have returned to the spotlight as concerns about their potential impact on health continue to grow.
For many people, the very idea that an ingredient is derived from crude oil raises a red flag. Chemists, however, point out that the issue is far from black and white. Some petroleum-derived ingredients are indeed proven to be harmful, while others can be beneficial for the skin. Need proof? Petroleum jelly itself is a petroleum derivative.
Petrochemical ingredients are widely used in cosmetics: mineral oils, paraffin, petrolatum (Vaseline), waxes and various polymers have been part of cosmetic formulations for decades due to their specific physical properties.
In cosmetics, petroleum derivatives serve multiple purposes: hydration, protection, stabilization and overall performance enhancement. This is why they are commonly found in creams, lotions, balms and other skincare products. Mineral oils and petrolatum form a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, helping to retain moisture and prevent dehydration. Paraffins and waxes improve texture, allowing products to maintain a smooth, uniform and stable consistency.
Additionally, petroleum derivatives are economically efficient and technologically stable raw materials. Compared to many plant-based oils, they are cheaper, longer-lasting and odorless, making them ideal for mass production. Their role as emollients and film-formers contributes to softer skin and a more pleasant after-feel, while also protecting other ingredients within the formula.
Petrochemical ingredients used in cosmetics generally fall into several main categories:
Solvents:
Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol and Dipropylene Glycol act as liquid bases and help active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. Their primary function is to enhance the overall efficacy of cosmetic products.
Emollients and sensory agents:
Mineral oils and waxes, such as paraffin, appear on ingredient lists under names like Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Cera Microcristallina, Ozokerite, Ceresin, Mineral Oil and Synthetic Wax.
Silicones are listed as Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclomethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Trisiloxane.
Acrylic polymers include Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate (MMA), PMMA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Polyacrylamide (PAM).
Synthetic fragrances, also derived from petroleum-related compounds, belong to this group as well.
Surfactants and emulsifiers:
These are often easy to identify as they commonly appear under the PEG designation.
Stabilizing and preserving agents:
This category includes preservatives such as Phenoxyethanol and parabens (Methylparaben, Ethylparaben), as well as chelating agents like EDTA and its salts (Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Calcium Disodium EDTA). pH regulators such as Triethanolamine (TEA) are also widely used.
Some petroleum-derived substances do pose a proven risk to human health — this is scientifically established. However, not all petrochemical ingredients are the same, nor should they all be treated equally.
Particular attention should be paid to PFAS compounds, which are suspected endocrine disruptors and have been linked to certain cancers and immune system effects. They are most commonly found in long-wear makeup, nail polishes and even some anti-wrinkle creams. PFAS are a large group of synthetic chemicals used since the 1940s, notorious for their resistance to degradation both in the environment and in the human body. They can often be identified by the presence of the prefix “fluoro” in their name.
Another red flag is 1,4-dioxane, a suspected carcinogen frequently found in shampoos, deodorants, toothpastes and even mouthwashes.
What about other petroleum derivatives? Many of them may be sensitizing or irritating and can trigger allergic reactions, but they are not considered inherently dangerous. Some may negatively affect the skin, such as mineral oils, which can clog pores and contribute to acne in certain skin types.
When it comes to environmental concerns, the picture is much clearer. Petroleum derivatives have a significant negative impact on the environment. They are derived from non-renewable fossil resources, and their production requires energy-intensive industrial processes. After use, many of these substances are poorly biodegradable or not biodegradable at all, allowing them to accumulate in soil and aquatic ecosystems and contribute to pollution.
Petroleum-derived ingredients are not inherently banned nor automatically harmful. Many are strictly regulated in the EU, highly refined and considered safe for use. Ingredients such as petrolatum and mineral oils have been used in dermatology for decades, especially for damaged, extremely dry or atopic skin, as they effectively prevent moisture loss and protect the skin barrier.
Problems arise when these ingredients are used as inexpensive substitutes for nourishing, biologically active components. While they may provide an immediate feeling of softness and smoothness, they generally do not nourish the skin or support regeneration, acting primarily on the surface. For some skin types — particularly oily, acne-prone or congestion-prone skin — they may contribute to comedogenicity or worsen existing conditions.
Once again, the core dermatological advice applies: read ingredient lists, stay informed and always perform a patch test when introducing new cosmetic products
If you want to avoid petrochemical ingredients altogether, organic cosmetics are generally considered the safest alternative. In these products, petroleum derivatives are replaced with naturally derived, renewable and biodegradable ingredients that serve similar functions.
Plant oils and butters — such as shea butter, jojoba oil, sunflower oil and coconut oil — provide hydration, protection and nourishment. Natural waxes like beeswax, candelilla and carnauba help shape texture and stabilize emulsions. Film-forming effects and slip similar to silicones are achieved using bio-based polymers. PEG compounds and synthetic surfactants are replaced by plant-derived emulsifiers and surfactants that ensure proper consistency and stability. Synthetic petrochemical fragrance molecules are substituted with natural fragrances derived from floral extracts, fruits or essential oils.
